Rock Climbing at Devils Lake State Park

With over 2,000 climbing routes on purple quartzite cliffs looming over the water 500 feet below, Devils Lake is the premier rock climbing destination of the Midwest. Records indicate that people have been climbing and training on these cliffs since the 1920’s. Now with the explosion of rock climbers throughout the U.S and world, Devils Lake State Park attracts an estimated 140,000 climbers every season. The climbing atmosphere at the Lake is much like it’s Midwestern surroundings. People are eager to chit-chat, make new friends, give a belay, share a rope, or share a beer at the end of a good day.
Many of the hiking trails wind about bluffs just below or above many of the famous climbing routes providing easy access and mobility throughout the day. While certain areas can get crowded on Saturdays with climbers and spectators, thousands of other routes remain hidden within the deep Wisconsin woods. Sundays tend to be quieter even at the most popular climbing crags. Most of the cliffs are about 60 – 100 feet in height which is perfect top-rope climbing. Top-rope climbing is incredibly safe and therefore makes Devils lake a wonderful place for new and novice climbers to practice and learn. That said, Devils Lake is also home to some of the toughest climbs and many professional from around the world have come to test their skills. One of the climbs called Bagatelle looks like a 70 foot sheet of glass and has only ever been climbed by 3 people. Jason Houston was the last local legend to master it.
There are two bluffs that dominate the lake, the east and west bluffs. The east bluff provides the most options in one specific area and has a tremendous view down the valley to Lake Wisconsin. The West bluff has hundreds of pockets of climbing and provides a better view of Devils Lake itself. The less domineering bluff, the South bluff has a few climbs but keeps it’s real gems (the boulders) hidden from most as there are no maintained trails on this bluff. Along the railroad tracks on the East side there are a couple great climbing spots which allow for a swim on the hot days. There are so many endless options that one could spend a lifetime climbing at the lake, and several have done so.
Guides and Guide books can be found to get you around to the best spots. The Devils Lake Guide book by Sven Olof Swartling has been the classic and best guide book hands down. And of course, Apex Adventure Alliance is the oldest guiding company using local guides. Wildside is the local climbing shop in the town of Baraboo, and they can get you any gear you need, guide book, or guide contact, etc. Even if you are an experienced climber make sure to talk with the locals or get a guide as the ratings are off, and a little local advise will go a long way. If your coming with a group on a Saturday make sure they know of several places to climb in case the first place is already grouped out.

Devils Lake is worth visiting just for the hiking, swimming, and unforgettable camping, but if you really want the trip you’ll treasure for your whole life, then make sure to add in the rock climbing.

Hope to see you on the cliffs!

Todd Stowell

Places to Ice Climb in Wisconsin

This is a gathering of the ice climbing locations and information that is helpful to those who live in Southern Wisconsin or the Northern Illinois, Chicago area.

Southern Wisconsin (Madison)

1. Governor Dodge State Park, Dodgeville, WI

This is the park that has really hit the scene lately for it’s sport climbing and bouldering and I highly recommend a summer visit as well. A little less known is the ice climbing at Governor Dodge. While the ice walls are not extremely tall (40 - 50 feet ) they do provided a nice variety and close getaway for Madison Ice Climbers. The park is just three miles north of Dodgeville on Hwy 23.
a. Steven’s Falls Area - (WI2-4, 1/2 pitch) From the visitors center grab a map and head to the area marked Steven’s Falls on the road to Twin Valley Lake. The parking lot is a small pull off to the right about a mile past the ranger station. Park and head down the trail east along the river to the falls.
b. Cox Hollow Lake - (Enee Point) (WI2-3) From the ranger station head to Head to Cox Hollow Lake to the parking lot on the west side. From there look for the wooden bridge, when you see it go across it and head west along side the little stream. There is no park trail, but there may be a socially created climber trail.

2. Lone Rock, WI

Note that there are several “Lone Rock” areas in the Midwest so don’t just mapquest and go to the first one that pops up. I have heard rumors that there are ice climbs at Lone Rock in Adams County - hard to believe and I have yet to check it out. If you have any info please let me know. Lone Rock in Richland County is about 1 hour from Madison taking Hwy 14 west past Spring Green. Off of Hwy 14 take Hwy 130 South and go through the town of Lone Rock. When your crossing the bridge take a look down the river to sport where you can climb. Turn right on to Hwy 133 and park in the lot. Hike the road until you reach the area above where you spotted the ice climbs (about 200 yards along the road). Hike down to the top of the cliff. Topropes can be set from the trees above. Careful of the slope approach.
a. Upriver (WI4+, 12m) - This column usually comes in about 3 feet wide and is the most difficult route of the area. If the river is not frozen you will have to climb out or use ascenders or you will be stuck... forever.

3. Wyalusing, WI

Note: Much of this Wisconsin Ice is not on public land, “Quarry Monster” is a privately owned quarry. You should talk with the locals in the climbing community or read “Superior Ice” for access issues. Bringing beer to barter can improve any situation in Wisconsin, probably not your actual climbing though. This area has 6 routes or more with variations and heights of 80ft+. Parking is on Cty Hwy X north of Wyalusing across the road from the quarry next to a large limestone buttress. Much of the cliff top is higher than the top of the ice climbs so protection is placed via V-threads at the top of ice pillars/walls.

   a.   Eagle Eyes (WI4 - 5 ) - this 60 foot ice pillar is at the far right of the quarry is steep and continuous with more features on the right side.

   b. Birds of Prey (WI4-5) - This is the twin of Eagle Eyes just to the left.

   c. Junk Yard Dog (WI4-5, M3-4) 40 feet. This climb is south of Quarry Monster. The rock is bad so only use ice protection. Sometimes the ice doesn’t reach the bottom, thus M3-4.

    d. The Main Route (WI3+) - This is the biggest ice wall along the railroad tracks, just a 5 minute walk north of the parking area. 40 feet/1 pitch, the is top acces 50 yards south with some scrambling. Keep and eye out for trains that come often. Watch out for Mud ice at the top and use the oak to rap off or use the walk off (if possible) down the loose limestone cliff.
   e. Quarry Monster (WI4) - On private land so get permission from the land owner. This 70 foot wall of ice is easy to spot from the road. Trees up top can be used for toproping which you can access via the trail on the left.
   f. Can O Beans (WI3) 60 feet - About 50 feet left of “The Main Route” and 30 feet left of Ice Hobo.
   g. Ice Hobo (WI4) - 3/4 mile along the railroad tracks from the boat landing. This is the climb next to the “Main Route” and has yet to be led. You can rap down from the trees above or use the rap anchor on top of the main route. The bottom gets little to no ice and provides a bad fall potential for a lead.
   h. Stirred But Not Shaken (WI3) - this little route is under 20 feet and is the highest drip on the west side of the quarry, about 1/2 mile from the top of the hill.
   i. That Mixed Route (M6) - About 60 feet left of the Main Route. This has the typical crappy rock at the bottom. Make about 3 moves dry tool on the small wall and then work up and around to sink into the ice above.

Other Areas in Southern Wisconsin

   a. Rock Springs, just 8 miles west of Baraboo gets some drips that every likes to keep hush - hush.   There is also great rock climbing (sport) too.
   b. Devils Punch Bowl, Menomonie, WI (UW-Stout) has ice that forms around a sandstone basin called The Devil's Punchbowl. Ice is 20 feet high at the most. Devils Punchbowl is just outside Menomonie, Wisconsin. Go west on highway 29 across the Red Cedar River. Turn left onto county P for a couple of hundred yards. Turn left onto Paradise Valley Road for about 1.8 miles. There is a small parking lot on the left side of the road.
   c. Eau Claire has climbable ice along the bike path to the south of Devils Punchbowl, WI.   The depot building/visitor center is along Highway 29 on the west side of Menomonie. The Trail is called the “Red Cedar Trail.” a wide drip 10 - 20 feet tall. The DNR has a stock photos of the ice wall @ http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/parks/specific/redcedar/ The DNR owns the land which holds the wall.
   d. The Ice Pit - An awesome place to ice climb in the Midwest. It is a club that you must join, or go with a fellow member at a per day price. Located near Green Bay, WI It has lots of routes with top-rope set ups. - Check out icepit.org for the details.

There are other places in Wisconsin that have potential for ice climbing. Please email us if you know of places that have been left out of this list. Much of this list has been collected via personal guiding/climbing experience, online sources, forums, and friends. If you need a climbing partner check out www.climbingcentral.com or www.mountainproject.com which are also great resources for current ice conditions. Apex Adventure Alliance at www.apexadventurealliance.com is the only guiding service for ice climbing in Wisconsin and Illinois. Apex keeps a low profile in ice climbing areas with small groups and expert guides.

Any questions of comments please call (608) 434 - 3360 or email Todd at todd@apexadventurealliance.com